I have always been drawn to mountains and hills. More than anything, I love being surrounded by nature. Since I live in Siliguri, close to the beautiful hills of North Bengal, I often long to escape to the mountains and spend some peaceful moments amidst nature.
This was my second trip to Sandakphu, one of the most beautiful mountain destinations in the Darjeeling region of West Bengal. I was just as excited as I had been during my first visit.
During my first trip, I was mesmerised by the breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas, the peaceful atmosphere, and the magnificent mountain views. One of my most unforgettable memories was seeing the mighty Himalayan range illuminated by moonlight. As I gazed at the majestic peaks, they looked as though Lord Buddha was sleeping peacefully beneath the night sky.
I had heard about the famous Sleeping Buddha formation of the Himalayas, but witnessing it with my own eyes was an entirely different experience. It was magical, serene, and deeply moving.
The sunrise over the Himalayas is equally mesmerising. As the first rays of sunlight touch the mountain peaks, the entire landscape comes alive with extraordinary beauty. The changing colours of the mountains, the drifting clouds, and the peaceful morning atmosphere create a sight that stays in your heart long after you leave.
Perhaps this is the magic of the mountains. Their beauty never seems to fade, and no matter how many times you visit, they continue to attract you with their grandeur, tranquillity, and timeless charm.
How Our Spontaneous Sandakphu Trip Was Planned
Our second trip to Sandakphu was never planned in advance. It happened quite unexpectedly!
My cousin sister, her newly married husband, and my aunt had come to visit me from Portugal. During one of our conversations about the beautiful places around Siliguri, Sandakphu came up. I suggested that they visit this spectacular mountain destination if they had enough time.
They love travelling just as much as I do, so they agreed almost instantly. They then invited my daughter and me to join them.
And how could I possibly say no to revisiting one of the most beautiful destinations I had ever experienced?
We made the decision one evening, and just a day later, we were already on our way to Sandakphu!
It was one of the most spontaneous trips of my life, and perhaps that was part of its charm. There was hardly any time for elaborate planning or lengthy preparations. We simply decided to go, packed our bags, and set off on our mountain adventure.
Sometimes, the most beautiful travel experiences are the ones we never plan. They arrive unexpectedly, bring wonderful surprises, and leave us with memories to cherish for years to come.
Little did I know that this spontaneous journey to Sandakphu would bring its own special beauty, unexpected moments, and stories worth sharing.
Starting Our Journey from Siliguri to Manebhanjyang
Our journey began at 6 a.m. from Siliguri. Our first destination was Manebhanjyang, a small mountain town in the Darjeeling district of West Bengal. It is a popular starting point for the road journey and trek to Sandakphu, the highest point in West Bengal.
After reaching Manebhanjyang, we completed the necessary formalities before proceeding towards Sandakphu.
Since the route passes through the Singalila region along the India–Nepal border, travellers should carry valid identification documents and check the current permit requirements before travelling.
Indian and foreign nationals may have different documentation requirements. Foreign visitors should confirm the latest entry and permit rules with the relevant authorities or a registered local operator before departure.
My brother-in-law was visiting from Portugal and travelling on a Brazilian passport. We therefore hired a guide for ₹1,700 per day after negotiating the price.
Having a knowledgeable local guide made the journey easier, particularly because of the route, checkpoints, and formalities along the way.
Choosing Our Hotel in Sandakphu
As I had visited Sandakphu before, I wanted to stay at the same hotel where I had stayed during my previous trip: Hotel Sunrise.
Located on the Nepal side of Sandakphu, the hotel holds a special place in my memories. One of the things I particularly love about it is the opportunity to watch the sunrise from its terrace. The rooms were clean and comfortable, making it a pleasant place to stay in the mountains.
Unfortunately, we could not get a room there this time. We had to book another hotel, Hotel Namo Buddha, at ₹2,000 per room per night.
When our driver and guide learnt about the price, they remarked that it was quite expensive. According to them, similar rates were more typical of established accommodation options such as Hotel Sunrise and Sherpa Chhattar on the Nepal side.
Based on my experience, I would recommend checking the availability of Hotel Sunrise and Sherpa Chhattar if you are planning a Sandakphu trip, particularly if you are travelling with elderly family members. Compare current room rates, room facilities, heating arrangements, and accessibility before making a reservation.
Unfortunately, our initial room at Hotel Namo Buddha did not meet our expectations. It was cramped, with three beds arranged in a way that left us with little space. After requesting a change, we were given a slightly better room.
Although the accommodation was not exactly what we had hoped for, we decided not to let it spoil our trip. After all, we were there to enjoy the mountains, experience nature, and, most importantly, spend time with one another.
Our Road Journey from Manebhanjyang to Sandakphu
We began our drive from Manebhanjyang at around 11 a.m. and reached Sandakphu at approximately 4 p.m.
Although the distance is roughly 30–35 kilometres, the journey takes several hours because of the steep terrain, winding roads, and rough stretches along the way.
We travelled in a Mahindra Bolero, which turned out to be a practical choice for the challenging mountain route. During my first visit to Sandakphu, I had travelled in a Bolero too. This time, I had hoped to experience the journey in a traditional Land Rover, but we could not get one.
In the end, travelling by Bolero worked well for us, especially because the weather was extremely windy.
The road to Sandakphu is an adventure in itself. Some stretches are paved, while others are rocky, uneven, and unpaved. Much of the route winds through the mountains, with sharp bends, steep climbs, and breathtaking views.
The condition of the road varies along the route, and the extent of paving can change over time. The final stretch, particularly around Bikheybhanjang and the climb towards Sandakphu, can be especially steep and bumpy.
The vehicle jolts and sways as it negotiates the rocky track, making the drive thrilling for some and frightening for others!
More Than a Dozen Checkpoints Along the Way
Since we were travelling with a foreign national, we had to stop at more than a dozen checkpoints during our journey. The additional formalities made our trip longer, but we understood the importance of following the applicable rules for foreign visitors.
Between the checkpoints, we enjoyed the adventurous drive through the mountains. The steep climbs and rough roads gave us plenty of reasons to laugh.
My aunt, however, was not enjoying the bumpy ride quite as much as the rest of us! She was terribly frightened whenever our vehicle negotiated a particularly steep or uneven stretch.
Her expressions were priceless, and watching her reactions made us laugh even more.
Sometimes, the most memorable moments of a trip are not the ones we plan but the little incidents that happen along the way.
A Stop at Chitrey Monastery
One of the highlights of our road trip was a stop at Chitrey Monastery.
The views from here are magnificent. Surrounded by the peaceful mountain landscape, the monastery offers a wonderful place to pause, breathe in the fresh mountain air, and admire the beauty of nature.
The statue of Chenrezig, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, was particularly striking. Standing before it, with the mountains all around, I felt a deep sense of peace and admiration.
I have always felt that mountains have a special ability to quiet the mind. Even when the views are hidden by clouds, the stillness and grandeur of the landscape have a beauty of their own.
Our stop at Chitrey reminded me that a mountain journey is not merely about reaching a destination. It is also about appreciating the places, people, and experiences we encounter along the way.
When the Mountains Were Hidden, Our Company Shone
Unfortunately, the weather was not in our favour that day. When we reached Sandakphu, the mountains were hidden behind thick clouds, and the spectacular Himalayan panorama remained out of sight.
On my first visit, I had been mesmerised by the beauty, peace, and calm of the Himalayas. I still remember seeing the great Himalayan peaks illuminated by moonlight. They looked almost like Lord Buddha sleeping peacefully beneath the night sky.
Naturally, I had hoped to experience those magnificent views again.
But this time, the mountains had other plans.
Although the weather was cloudy and the wind was strong, our company was bright and warm. We spent time talking, laughing, and sharing stories. Through my brother-in-law, we learnt more about Brazil and other parts of the world. Our conversations brought us closer together.
It made me reflect on something beautiful: despite our different nationalities, cultures, skin colours, and backgrounds, we humans are remarkably similar.
We all laugh, love, experience fear and happiness, and long for connection. The things that bring warmth to our lives are often the same, no matter where we come from.
Just as the universe embraces hills, mountains, oceans, and plains without discrimination, perhaps we, too, should learn to embrace every human being with openness and acceptance.
That day, I realised that we do not always need perfect weather or spectacular scenery to create beautiful memories. Sometimes, the warmth of good company is enough to make an ordinary day extraordinary.
A Chilly Evening in Sandakphu
The weather remained cloudy throughout the evening. Since the mountains were not visible, we decided to stay in our room rather than go out to watch the sunset. We hoped the weather would improve the following morning so that we could witness the magnificent Himalayas and the beautiful sunrise.
My sister and her husband went out for a stroll and suggested that we join them for coffee and snacks at Hotel Sherpa Chhattar.
The hotel staff provided us with charcoal to keep us warm in the chilly mountain weather. The cold was intense, and staying warm was essential.
Unfortunately, my aunt had difficulty climbing up to Sherpa Chhattar from our hotel, Namo Buddha. She was breathing heavily and struggling to walk. Watching her experience such discomfort made us realise how physically demanding a visit to Sandakphu can be.
We enjoyed our tea and snacks before returning to our hotel and getting into bed.
This experience reminded me of something important that I would like to share with anyone planning a trip to Sandakphu.
Please assess your health and physical fitness before visiting Sandakphu. The high altitude, steep terrain, cold weather, and physical exertion can be challenging, particularly for older travellers and people with existing health conditions.
Difficulty breathing at high altitude should never be ignored. It is important to seek medical attention promptly rather than assume it is simply the result of exertion. If you are travelling with elderly family members, plan your activities according to their comfort and physical abilities.
We were grateful that we had made it through the evening and hoped the next day would bring better weather.
Waiting for the Sunrise at Sandakphu
The next morning, we woke up at around 4:30 a.m., full of hope that the weather had cleared overnight.
My aunt, however, preferred to rest because she was experiencing a headache.
We looked outside, hoping to catch a glimpse of the magnificent Himalayan peaks, but the weather was still cloudy and foggy. There was no sign of a clear sky or a beautiful sunrise.
Our guide suggested that we remain in our rooms because the wind was strong. He promised to call us if the weather improved.
We waited patiently, hoping the clouds would clear and reveal the breathtaking Himalayan panorama for which Sandakphu is famous.
But even by 6 a.m., the weather remained unchanged. The mountains were still hidden behind the clouds, and we could not witness the sunrise.
Of course, we were disappointed. After travelling all the way to Sandakphu, we had hoped to see the magnificent Himalayan range glowing in the early morning sunlight.
But there were no complaints, resentment, or bad feelings.
After all, the weather is beyond our control. We can plan a trip, make reservations, and travel long distances, but nature does not always follow our expectations.
Life is unpredictable. Instead of feeling disappointed about what we cannot change, we can learn to embrace what is in front of us.
I believe there is a certain peace in accepting life as it unfolds. We do not have to allow every unexpected situation to spoil our happiness. Sometimes, letting go of our expectations allows us to appreciate the little joys that are already around us.
Feeling Unwell in the Mountains
During the morning, I also began to experience dizziness and bloating. I had skipped dinner the previous night and had not eaten breakfast that morning either.
As we were staying in the mountains, we did not have ORS readily available. I prepared a homemade oral rehydration solution using sugar, salt, and water, which I felt helped me.
However, dizziness at high altitude should not automatically be attributed to an empty stomach or dehydration. It can have several causes, including altitude-related illness. If you experience persistent dizziness, a severe headache, difficulty breathing, confusion, or other concerning symptoms at high altitude, seek medical assistance promptly.
Homemade rehydration solutions must also be prepared using the correct proportions of clean water, sugar, and salt. When available, a properly prepared commercial ORS sachet is preferable to estimating the quantities yourself.
Travelling in the mountains can be an unforgettable experience, but it also teaches us to listen to our bodies and take our health seriously.
After resting and getting ready, we prepared to begin our journey back home.
A Glimpse of the Sleeping Buddha: A Beautiful Farewell to Sandakphu
Before leaving Sandakphu, our guide suggested that we visit Hotel Sunrise.
Thankfully, we followed his suggestion.
Although the weather was still not completely clear, we were fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a small part of the magnificent Himalayan range. We could see a portion of the famous Sleeping Buddha formation, where the Himalayan peaks resemble Lord Buddha resting peacefully.
It was not the grand, unobstructed view I had hoped for, but even that brief glimpse made us happy.
I was deeply grateful to our guide and driver for suggesting this stop and helping us experience that beautiful moment before leaving Sandakphu.
Sometimes, we travel with great expectations, only to discover that nature has something different in store for us. We may not receive everything we wish for, but we can still find something beautiful to take home with us.
That little glimpse of the Sleeping Buddha was enough to make our journey worthwhile.
Beautiful Places to Visit on the Way Back from Sandakphu
The return journey from Sandakphu was another opportunity to appreciate the beauty of the Singalila region. There are several places along the route where you can stop, enjoy the surroundings, and take photographs.
Here are a few places that caught my attention during our journey.
1. Kalipokhri – A Sacred Black Pond
Kalipokhri is a small settlement known for its sacred black pond. The pond and its surroundings have a unique charm, making it an interesting stop for travellers exploring the Sandakphu route.
It is worth pausing here to appreciate the peaceful atmosphere and take a few photographs.
2. Tumling – Beautiful Mountain Views
Tumling is a picturesque mountain settlement in Nepal, surrounded by rolling hills and beautiful landscapes.
The road through this area is particularly scenic, with hills rising on either side and breathtaking views unfolding along the way. Even when the weather is not perfectly clear, the landscape has a charm of its own.
Tumling is also a popular overnight stop for travellers visiting Sandakphu.
3. Tonglu – A Viewpoint for Himalayan Peaks
Tonglu is another beautiful stop along the Sandakphu route and is known for its Himalayan views.
Unfortunately, we could not see Kanchenjunga on our way back either. The clouds continued to hide the magnificent peaks, leaving us to imagine the spectacular panorama that appears on a clear day.
Although we missed the view, Tonglu was still a lovely place to experience the beauty of the mountains.
4. Meghma – A Peaceful Monastery Near the Border
Meghma is a small mountain settlement near the India–Nepal border. I would recommend stopping here to explore the monastery and experience the peaceful atmosphere.
The monastery is associated with Buddhist traditions and is known for its sacred imagery. Before describing the number and significance of the Buddha images in detail, it is worth confirming the monastery’s history and the local tradition with a knowledgeable guide.
For me, places like these add another dimension to a mountain journey. They allow us to experience not only the scenery but also the culture, spirituality, and traditions of the region.
5. Try Homemade Rhododendron Wine
One thing you should not forget to look for during your visit is homemade rhododendron wine.
I found it very tasty, and it makes for an interesting local speciality to discover during the trip. If you decide to buy some, purchase it from a reputable local seller and check the applicable rules for transporting alcohol across the India–Nepal border.
The return journey is a wonderful reminder that the Sandakphu experience is about more than reaching the highest point. The small villages, monasteries, mountain roads, and local specialities all contribute to the charm of the journey.
What My Second Sandakphu Trip Taught Me About Life
My second trip to Sandakphu was very different from my first. We could not enjoy the spectacular sunrise, the clear Himalayan views, or the beautiful sunset I had been longing to see.
We also faced a few unexpected challenges, from uncomfortable accommodation to the physical difficulties some of us experienced in the cold and at high altitude.
Yet, I returned home with gratitude rather than disappointment.
The trip reminded me that happiness does not always come from getting what we want. Sometimes, it comes from accepting what we have and making the best of every situation.
We cannot control the weather, the mountains, or the circumstances that unfold during our travels. But we can choose how we respond to them.
Instead of complaining about the sunrise we missed, we could appreciate the laughter we shared, the kindness of our guide and driver, the warmth of our companions, and the beautiful glimpse of the Sleeping Buddha.
Life is unpredictable. We may carefully plan every detail, but things do not always turn out as expected. Rather than allowing disappointment to take away our happiness, we can learn to accept what we cannot change and appreciate what we do have.
Whether we are travelling through the mountains or navigating the challenges of everyday life, acceptance and gratitude can help us find peace even when things do not go according to plan.
We returned home safe and sound, carrying beautiful memories and a gentle reminder that every journey has something to teach us.
And for that, I am truly thankful.
Final Thoughts: Why Sandakphu Is Worth Visiting
My second Sandakphu trip may not have given me the clear Himalayan views I had hoped for, but it gave me something equally meaningful: precious time with my family, unexpected laughter, beautiful encounters, and valuable life lessons.
If you are planning a Sandakphu trip from Siliguri, be prepared for a long and bumpy mountain drive, unpredictable weather, cold temperatures, and basic accommodation options. Check the latest road conditions, permits, vehicle arrangements, and hotel availability before travelling. If you are visiting with elderly family members, plan the journey carefully and prioritise their comfort and safety.
Most importantly, keep your expectations flexible. Sandakphu is famous for its breathtaking views of the Sleeping Buddha and the Himalayan peaks, but the weather does not always cooperate. A clear view is never guaranteed.
Even when the mountains remain hidden behind clouds, the journey can still be beautiful. The winding roads, peaceful monasteries, charming mountain villages, and precious moments spent with loved ones can make the experience worthwhile.
For me, this trip was a reminder that the beauty of a journey lies not only in the destination but also in the experiences we gather along the way.
Sometimes, we return home without seeing everything we hoped to see, but with a heart full of gratitude for everything we experienced.
And perhaps that is one of the most beautiful lessons the mountains can teach us.
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